Been doing tons of research and doing my best to understand the really old schematics for the neo geo. For my issue it is most likely not an audio cap issue. I may still do an audio cap kit just since the ma chine is 20 years old.

From what I can tell the issue is most likely a YM2610 chip issue. All 4 slots and all 4 games have the same issue with the audio, music and coin/menu sounds work but nothing else does. From what I can figure, the chip is bad and the ADPCM sounds are not coming through. I might pull the board out again and probe it to make sure it isn't one of the mux chips. Thought I would post this to maybe help someone else someday.

Please do let us know what you find!

Do you have an original CPS1 boardset with bootleg roms?

your photos don't show it too well, but to put it simply, check for two things:

the monitor should be attached to the chassis.

the chassis should be bolted down to the cabinet with 4 bolts.

you want to make sure the monitor does not wobble. move it around with your hands and make sure it is secure.

hope that helps. sounds and looks great! how much are you getting it for? i'd love to see it home and set up.

Some confusing terminology. Generally the electronic control board of the monitor is referred to as the chassis. The metal bracket that the tube is bolted to and the control board is screwed to is referred to as the frame.

I believe normally the isolation transformer will input AC volts and output AC volts. You shouldn't get any 5 volts off the isolation transformer. The monitor also gets power in from AC and switches to DC volts on the chassis.

A good first step is always a cap kit, and check your Horizontal Output Transistor for shorts. Sounds like the chassis has a short somewhere that is blowing the fuse. Caps tend to fail first, and may take other parts with them.

Would i be able to fix this monitor with a cap kit?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20950749@N02/9803758554/

I can't really tell what's going on there to say for sure. I would rebuild the monitor then go from there. If it were my monitor I'd probably shotgun it with a cap kit, flyback, and new HOT.

i know cap kit, what is a flyback and HOT?

The flyback is the big power transformer on the monitor chassis (control board) that connects to the anode cap (suction cup connection) on the picture tube. HOT is horizontal output transistor.

Found you guys on the Youtube channel.  FANTASTIC stuff! seriously a huge fan from the first video.  Looking forward to learning lots and meeting new peeps!

I am specialist in repairing modern day videogameconsoles.  (i.e. Xboxs, Ps3s etc.)  Let me know if anyone has any questions about that kinda stuff.

Dan

How much do you know about operating modern consoles in an arcade context? Is there a convenient way to do a timer, such as with playchoice-10?

So picked up a Neo-Geo 4 slot and it is's original monitor has been replaced It now has a Hitachi GMK-25FS2 any one know any thing about this monitor I need to hook it up and the connector on the cabs harness dos not match the monitor. the connector on the monitor is six wires and the cabs harness is five any suggestions?

Usually a monitor connector should be something like: R(ed), G(reen), B(lue), black (ground), empty, white (composite sync). If you have two wires after RGBb, you probably have a separate wire for horizontal and vertical sync

Do you think it will be alright to use a 15 amp power supply instead of the 20amp. The +5VDC 20amp was on the old power supply and the new i got was says +5VDC 15amp.

the amps are basically what drives the power throughout the games board and wiring. 15amp on +5V should be more than enough.

Dr pinball helped me find that the power wire to the drop targets was totally disconnected. After re-soldering the wire the drop targets work great!

Only issue now is with the post-game bonus. Normally the game displays a double digit number, and then cycles through numbers in a matching game. If the numbers end up in a match, nothing in the game happens, but one of the speakers pops loudly...

seems very cool to me... Is it undersized?

Yes. I think it's about half size.  I am picking up this week.  I will post more info this weekend.  

Undersized stuff is very cool for kid oriented arcades and arcade collections. Are there a series of undersized pinball games from this manufacturer or just this one?

EDIT ~ arcade museum shows only one pinball from the maker of star explorer. Id love to get more info on undersized pinballs if anyone knows of any more

http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuf_detail.php?manuf_id=2318&orig_game_id=14937

The link below has info on Star Explorer. It also has links to other pinballs this same company made.  The Demolition Derby art looks very cool/retro.  All their pinballs are the exact same, just different themes/art.

http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?gid=2345

Thanks for the info! Very cool, these are all undersized? Im going to lobby to get one or two of these for our arcade. We also have a couple leprechaun cabinets I hope to get fully up and running. Will be cool to increase our selection of activities for small kids.

seems very cool to me... Is it undersized?

Yes. I think it's about half size.  I am picking up this week.  I will post more info this weekend.  

Undersized stuff is very cool for kid oriented arcades and arcade collections. Are there a series of undersized pinball games from this manufacturer or just this one?

EDIT ~ arcade museum shows only one pinball from the maker of star explorer. Id love to get more info on undersized pinballs if anyone knows of any more

http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuf_detail.php?manuf_id=2318&orig_game_id=14937

So I started my first pinball repair at work today. The lights on the playfirld were totally dead. The game has a built in "pinball dr" which basically guides you through a repair flowchart, so was able to easily locate and replace a blown fuse.

There is still an issue with the bank of three targets on the right not popping up, so will have to have another checkup with the pinball dr tomorrow

seems very cool to me... Is it undersized?

Just went to Nairobi's house to help him get started on his machines. Hes got an Operation wolf in great working condition! Gun recoils and everything. Havent played that one in 20 years... Great choice!

Check for a bad coin switch(shorted) or ticket dispenser PCB i would try reconnecting one at time to see which one is the troublemaker. it is easier now to just replace the ticket PCB than fix. most likely the notch transistor is shorted

both the ticket and coin counter showed the same symptom when they were connected. Problem went away when i swapped the cpu boards around