Did you adjust the pots on the video board of the DK? There are pots on the video PCB for DK. Vertical position looks off.

That's the one. If you haven't done any kind of soldering before, do the audio board first. Or better yet, try on a spare piece of something if you have it. Also, keep an eye out for a working 20EZ chassis....it might save you the headache

[carefully]

That switch is a test switch. You want it on Normal, which it is.

If you're not planning on working on it again for a couple of days, clean it. It's easy and not scary. Plus it'll make your life easier. Discharge that monitor one more time, sometimes those tubes can hold a charge. I doubt yours has a charge, but it's better to get into a safe routine now. I typically cover the hole for the anode with a piece of electrical tape or something to keep things out of it. With this monitor, what I would do next is remove the cage around the flyback. This will give you some indication as to whether or not you really need to replace the flyback. They can crack, etc.  Next, soak that puppy in simple/mean green, or something similar. Then rinse it off. I typically do it with a garden hose, but you can do it in the sink or whatever. Then I put it out to dry for a few days while I'm at work and doing other things. For the first day, I let it sit in the sun by my garage and let the water drain off and evaporate. Any monitors I plan on working on through the fall/winter/spring I try to get washed during the summer since things tend to dry quicker. I've heard of people having their HOTs short (that button transistor on the side that you took a picture of) after washing because moisture got in. Those have a plastic insulator between the transistor and the frame it's mounted on. I'm just letting you know as a precaution to make sure things are dry.

So you can test it outside of the cab....HOWEVER that lovely looking plug it has on the power cord is NOT meant for your household outlets. It requires 100v, not the 110-120 coming out of the wall. It also needs to go through an isolation transformer. If you plan on testing it outside of the cabinet, take the isolation transformer and power supply with you from the bottom of the cabinet if you don't have a spare. You won't get a picture, but you'll be able to carefully check voltages.

I'm not sure your familiarity with testing electronics, when I started this hobby I could barely use a multimeter efficiently. So if there is anything that doesn't make sense, just ask.

Before you go replacing flybacks and such. There are other reasons why it wouldn't have neck glow. What did you get for voltages? Are you getting 108v at the monitor? What are you getting to the board?  Incorrect voltages will cause things not to work correctly. Is the audio board getting voltage?

Double check fuse 301 with the multimeter. Sometimes a visual inspection is no good. If it's out, check the HOT (Horizontal Output Transistor) at Q902. Those are known to go sometimes. You won't get anything with that fuse blown.

If you're going to be doing any work on the monitor, you might as well cap the audio board while it's out.

Let's start with a couple of basics. I only ask because I was once in this position. You may or may not be.  Do you know how to check voltages using your multimeter? If not, let us know and we'll clear that up. Do you know where to check for 5v? Just because a power supply is putting out 5v, doesn't mean that there is 5v at the board.

There are a couple of fuses on the 20EZ. I'm not sure which one you have that's blown, but there is a flow chart out there: http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll282/dokert/Monitor%20ID/Sanyo20EZVFlowChart.jpg

If a fuse is blown, there is typically a reason. I've learned that the hard way. Put in a new fuse, watch it pop...wait, let's try it again. POP! darn...perhaps one more time! POP! Ok...let's address this...3 fuses later.  The speaker getting a whine could be from a bunch of things. 1. It just has power going to it and it's whiny because the volume is up too high. What happens when you adjust the volume?  2. Audio board might need a cap kit (possible). If you have never replaced a bunch of capacitors, I recommend starting with the audio board on this to get yourself familiar. In my opinion, it's the easiest/best place to start for a cap kit as a beginner. There aren't a lot of caps and it's pretty easy to work with.

When you bought this game, I'm assuming you purchased it either untested or non-working. But did they say what they had done or what they had for problems?

First things first, welcome!

This next question is rhetorical, or perhaps not, but how handy are you? 

Does the game play "blind"? Meaning, if you coin it up, and start a game, can you hear it playing?  If yes, then we start looking at the monitor. If no, we start looking at if everything has power.

Some other simple things to start checking. Can you feel static on the front of the tube? IE does the hair on your arm stand up when you're close?

Typically when I get a game that doesn't work, I start at the power and I make sure everything is putting out correct voltages.  After that I look to see if the game is playing or playing blind. If it's playing blind, the next thing I do is turn up the "Screen" on the flyback slowly to see if a picture comes in. Either the picture will come in or it will turn white. If not (and it has power) we have monitor work to do. Sometimes those monitors need adjusting and the monitors are so FILTHY that even if it has neck glow, you can't see it. Just a word of advice, use caution when working around those monitors. That suction cup on the top of the tube...stay away unless you can safely discharge it. That's about 20,000 volts.

Good luck and report back!

Got the light bulb sockets for it. You can get them at the automotive supply store. They were used in dashboard instrument lighting. If you go to Autozone/Advanced Auto/Pep Boys/etc or any other big box place, be prepared to drop about $3.50 per socket!  I found them at an independent place for about $1.50-$1.60 WITH bulbs. Plus...those big box places only ever have 2 in stock...  The cockpit requires 9 bulb sockets if you're going to replace them all. And you might as well replace each one if it's the original because as soon as you take the bulb out of the socket it will crumble because it is so brittle with age.

I've been playing with the volume and quite get it right. It's either as loud as an F1 car or you can't hear the subwoofer in the back. I'm suspecting something with the pots possibly?

offset, what pot controlled the crash volume? Because that scares the crap out of me. That and it's currently my 2.5 year old son's favorite game....and could quickly become hated in about 0.25 seconds after the first crash.

Next up is to clean up the shifter and possibly the coin box. I just have to figure out how to get it out.

I need to post more in the forums...or Namco51 will get mad at me!    Anyway, I just picked this Sega Turbo cockpit up. I found out about this game about a year ago. At first I was like, "Meh..." so I passed on it. Then this past Nov. I really got into Pole Position...I mean really. Breaking 60k points like it "ain't no thang."  I'm hooked on these twitch racers. (Is that a genre? It is now)  Luckily, I knew this wasn't going anywhere so I reached out to the guy and said I'd take it...last Fall. Well, it's the end of July and I finally picked it up. It's a little dirty from sitting in a barn, but that's the way I like 'em.

The game had been sitting for so long I wasn't sure if it would boot. The first time I turned it on I just got garbage on the screen. So I did what anyone else would do. I turned it off and turned it back on again and we had life! Hooray!  I played a round and promptly found out that the steering wasn't working.  At this point, that's no big ...the board works. Hopefully it's an easy fix. So I was out there in the garage cleaning it up just this evening. Finally, I was like, "You know mrdude...you can fix this. Let's do it right now."  So I got my trusty Rat Shack multi meter and started probing like I knew what I was doing. Beeeeep. We had continuity between the steering board and the PCB. Voltage check...nada. I should be getting 5v at the steering board. Checked it at the molex connector...low 4v. So I double checked the power supply and that was a little low so I dialed it in. Still nothing. Well...let's do what any other Joe Shmoe would do, disconnect and reconnect all the things. So I did. Did all of the connectors at the PCB for good measure. Nothing changed. What the flip? So I tested voltages again and wiggled wires. Wait a sec...one of the LEDs briefly had a dim blink....We're on to something! So I reconnected the connector at the board and we were off! I had a good connection! Fast forward to about 5 minutes ago and I've just played several rounds and now I'm posting here.

The next steps are to continue cleaning it and get the volume adjusted right. Maybe spray some deoxit on those volume pots. Then I need to adjust the steering wheel gears so that the optical wheel doesn't have play in it and isn't hitting the sensors.

The game has over 177,000 on the coin counter. You figure that's over $44,000...I guess this game made some money while it was on the floor.






Album:
http://imgur.com/a/Vb87T

Pickup video: https://youtu.be/6xRIgYy2-N0

Inside the game: https://youtu.be/bOxzuHqgxTU

This thead is worthless without pics! (Welcome!)   Please share your progress!

Welcome to the boards. Saw your photo on reddit. Good luck and have fun.

Looks like my 50+ hours on a fart-laced bus streak ends at 2 years. I'm flying this year. Fuck bussing ir.

Are you the guy from the grinkers video last year that took the bus from some place too far for most people to travel by bus?

And to the OP...did you make it to the U.S.A. (United States of Arcades)?

I encountered something similar to this the other day. No matter how I turned the Vertical Hold pot it wouldn't lock in. It would roll one way or the other. Turns out one of the sync wires going to the monitor was loose and didn't have a good connection. Probably not your case, but thought I'd mention it. Did you try the monitor with another harness or game? I know you said the board is fine, but let's rule out the middle man (harness).

Good luck!

Yay! Congrats for getting it into an apartment! Hopefully it was ground level!

I guess the question is, how many games do you plan on getting? 1 or 2? Pick up truck or van. 3-4 standard sized uprights, pick up truck.  4+ I'd get a box truck with a ramp. I rented a 15' UHaul truck with about 12 games. I had a cocktail table in the "Mom's attic" and a workbench in there too. So you could probably fit 13 or 14 games in it depending on the size.

[s]

Pole Positions

Original...I know!