Larger bit? Vice grips? Put a screw driver on and tap it with a hammer? I save WD-40 and PB Blaster for cars typically.  You're talking about the two that typically hold a chassis in so it can slide out? Worst case scenario is to take the monitor out and put the tube face down on a towel so you can get some leverage. I've been there...just with rusty bolts on cars. Good luck.

Sounds like you have good intentions. I think you'll need to determine your demographics first. Families? Young kids? Yuppies? The 21+ night crowd? etc.  The games are the attraction, but typically not where the money will be made with a lot of these places these days. Food, liquor, etc is what will keep cash flowing in and the business making money. Some places have cover charges and all of the games are on free play. If everything is on coin play at the old rates, it might be enough to keep the games up and running to buy parts and such.

You mentioned making donations, perhaps if you ran it as a non-profit it might be easier? I'm not sure how that would work on the business side. Or perhaps even partner with another business that has space for 20+ games and split the earnings?

Good luck and keep us updated!

Mine had the remnants of the cardboard one still attached but it was in rough shape.  A plastic one? I wonder if that was from another Centuri game or just a universal bezel?

TAKE IT AWAY! I'm done with it! THANK YOU

(I'll bring it by this week!)

[Approximate prices (may be off +/- $10 or so, especially if it includes shipping)]

Here are some of the pictures documenting my restore of one the games I have lusted for after getting into this hobby. Finding one proved to be difficult, not to mention the price bracket for this game recently.

This game started as an empty cabinet converted to Tetris that I got from another local collector. It had pretty much been stripped of anything of significant value. The cabinet appeared to be solid but had some damage hiding behind the corner protectors. At one point I even thought I was missing monitor brackets, but they were hiding behind the remaining bits of the original monitor bezel at the bottom of the cabinet. Thank god because who knows how long I would have to search for monitor brackets. I think I even posted a WTB at one point for them!

One thing I'd like to document in this post is the cost of parting in a cabinet. Partially for the beginners who may think of undertaking a project like this.

Short of doing the cabinet repair work, I had some minor PCB repair to do. The high score save battery was dead and that was replaced with a battery holder and a new battery. The other PCB repair wasn't 100% necessary to play but there was no way I was going to install the game with an extra ground wire soldered in some place. It had a burnt ground on the edge connector of the PCB. That was repaired with some copper tape. I thought I had a picture of it, but I don't. Hrm....You've all seen a burnt ground on an edge connector! Just go look at a Pole Position or Pac-Man board!

The monitor was sourced from one of the other cheap cabinets I picked up this past winter. It's using a Kortek KTA-915 with a burn free tube. These aren't bad monitors and super easy to do a cap kit on. And yes, I did a cap kit on it before I put it in. Might as well, right? For the monitor bezel, I used joeycuda's reproduction monitor bezel. He definitely does nice quality work!

I decided not to use the original control panel because a trade came up for one without the extra joystick holes that mine had. Unfortunately, this control panel lived with Ariel and Sebastion and was rustier than a tin can in a monsoon. It made for easy scraping to get the original CPO off. Afterwards, I gave it a bath in distilled white vinegar and that cleaned it up great. Seriously! I was amazed at how well it removed all of the surface rust. Normally, I'd just go to town sanding/grinding away the rust, but with an expecting wife and a toddler running around, ain't no body got time for that!

Once the control panel was taken care of, the cabinet repair started and then the paint came. I chose to spray this cabinet over rolling it. This was my first time spraying something other than automotive paint. I will say right now, I prefer automotive paint being sprayed on metal. The mixing ratios are exact, the flash and dry times are precise. I like that. This time I sprayed latex acrylic paint. I thinned the paint with water and Floetrol.  Where I live, I can't get custom mixed oil based paint. So while I could have done oil for the white sides, I chose to be consistent.

My approximate mixing ratios for the latex paint were:
- 10 oz paint
- 1-2 oz of Floetrol
- About 4-5 oz of water

I was going for the consistency of heavy cream/half & half/whole milk. Somewhere in that range.

Dry times varied greatly depending on sunshine, humidity, and temperature. I kept a test panel near by to check.

For the blue paint, I brought in the blue control panel bracket. Typically these have factory over spray on them and are not exposed to UV light so they shouldn't be too faded. The local Ace Hardware store did a nice job of matching the paint.

Hind sight is 20/20 they say. I should have test fit that T-molding I got from Arcade Shop or done a little more research on here. Their offset t-molding does not fit the Track & Field cabinet. The offset is wrong but the width is correct. You figure that was about a $20 mistake if you include shipping. I ended up purchasing 7/8" t-molding and trimming one side. The inside edge is so close to the edge that I left it so I would keep a factory edge on the T-molding. You could go with 1" if you want to trim both sides.  Special thanks to blkdog7 for letting me borrow his trimmer!

All of the artwork came from Phoenix arcade and looks great on the cabinet. The marquee took a while to arrive but it was worth the wait.

Finding that Centuri raised letter coin door was a little bit of a chore. They aren't cheap either and I wasn't expecting that. I've officially paid more for a coin door than I have some of my games. But I suppose that comes with having a higher quality game, right?! To refurbish the coin door it was sprayed black, including the letters. Before spraying though, I put some polish & wax on the metal letters so the paint would remove a little easier. I then started sanding the letters with a sanding block with 220 attached to it. That gave a nice polished look. But if you get careless, you can scrap away your other fresh paint...which I did and then had to redo it. Doh! Lesson learned, don't rush even if sanding is boring.

Overall, I'm thrilled with the results and I'm enjoying drooling over my game and having my fingers roll over the run buttons. It's a very gratifying feeling!  Below are some pictures because this thread would be worthless without them!

Approximate prices (may be off +/- $10 or so, especially if it includes shipping)
cabinet - $75
pcb - $140 shipped
coin door - $120 shipped
CPO - $60
Marquee - $65
Side art - $130  
t-molding mistake - $20 shipped
t-molding - $20 shipped
blue paint - $15
white paint - previously purchased
black paint - $12
harness & hole free, but rusty control panel - traded an empty cabinet
cap kit - $9
button kit - $14
4 new leaf switch buttons & holder - $22
electrical cord - $10
molex connector - $5
vinegar - $3
Floetrol - $7

Approximate total: $727  

I could have bought one for that price, but mine looks better and has my blood & sweat into it.

Video Playlist for the bored:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLbHiYDImGdzBB8eh52FKQHWcez0DCB3lz

Photo Album:
http://imgur.com/a/LNqmf




Second control panel without the extra holes for the joystick...but rusty!


After the vinegar bath (I used distilled white vinegar in a plastic bin. A gallon was less than $3 I think.






This is the offset T-Molding from Arcade Shop for Centuri cabinets. It does NOT fit the Track & Field cab. I ended up purchasing 7/8" T-Molding and borrowing a trimmer. (Thanks!)












Joeycuda's repro monitor bezel


Just waiting for the marquee.



Hope you guys enjoyed this, if you have any questions, let me know!

What's in the collection? Greetings from the state just north of you.

I'd start there. Seems like you've got a bad power supply. Voltages should be steady.

There is a way to use a modern switching power supply easily, but it costs money... 

http://arcadeshop.com/nin-ps/nin-ps.htm

There's also a cap kit for the original power supply:

https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?action=search&category=Game+Parts&subcategory=Power+Supplies

Or you might find one on KLOV?

And...RUBBER LEGS!

Have you checked on KLOV? http://forums.arcade-museum.com/

How to test a transistor:

http://www.vetco.net/blog/?p=184

Glad you posted. Welcome.

Describe to me this paper clip trick. You shorted the wires? And got....a spark?   I recommend getting a multimeter. Change the multi meter to DC, plug the black cable of your multimeter to the ground and then take your red wire and go to the others and check your voltages.

This should help you:


If you don't get what you need, consider replacing your power supply. Also go through and check your connections to make sure they are good. You can do a "Continuity test" or "ohm it out" between points of the wires. Sometimes connectors go bad if they've been plugged in and out a lot.  If you get the multimeter with the audible continuity test, it'll make your life a lot easier. When you have continuity it will beep.

As we talked last night, we know the monitor has power. But it's not getting a video signal. So that makes me want to check 2 things before going too far in depth. I'd first check the cable for the video signal and reconnect it. Then I'd check to make sure that the computer/board is actually turning on. Some boards have LEDs that come on when they have power. I'd want to verify both first before I suspect anything wrong with the board.

Good luck!

Let's see if that board plays blind before you replace the flyback. It's kind of a pain in the neck on the 20EZ because the adjustment knobs aren't there on the new ones, so you reconnect it and such.

http://www.cinelabs.com/sanyo/Sanyo_Install.pdf

You'll want the flyback for the Sanyo 20EZ: http://therealbobroberts.net/parts.html#flyback

If you wanted to...for those rollers, you could try soaking them in white vinegar over night and seeing how well it cleans them up. Then try soaking the bearings in a penetrating oil like PB Blaster or something. Although it would be quicker/easier to buy new rollers and bearings.

I buy the gallon jug and dilute it per the directions for heavy cleaning typically. I have used it as concentrated too and it's been fine. When I was buying the spray bottle and using a lot less of it, I would fill it with water when it was half gone...it's still stronger than the heavy cleaning ratio.

Either way is fine.

https://imgur.com/a/SdjPt Should i be getting a reading on the bottom side of the board from the fuse? The right side is rusty

Yes, you should have continuity across it. If not, you could clean it up and try resoldering it. Typically with the flyback you can hear it when its on. Sounds like a high pitched faint whine.