When will this hobby die out? Does it die out with you guys, or do you think it will be passed on to your kids and continue on? I know this was briefly discussed on AO.

I picked up a Frogger cocktail today, working, for what I think is pretty darn cheap. The joysticks just felt like crap, so I opened the thing up(more difficult than I thought, by the way), and there are micro switch joysticks in the game. Both sides have the exact same joystick, but I'm still wondering, is this original? And, where can I buy replacement grommets? It seems to be that the grommet is just a foam piece. Thanks

Update: That board turned out to be the wrong game so I'm still looking

Where are you located?

I ordered the parts to fix it but while playing it, it randomly rebooted into this screen. Is this some kind of test mode? It let me start a game and I could move wherever I wanted while Inky and Sue(only these two) chased me around the screen. When dead, the game froze and I had to reboot it. Ignore the blue tint, that's a monitor issue. Anyone have any idea what this is all about?

http://imgur.com/ihm47Qp

I'll change this to literally any parts for Eggs since very few have even heard of the game.

There is not a filter board installed. Chip 8B looks like I could go to the store and buy that chip. It looks brand new. But I did find this... From what I can tell, that part is not supposed to be sticking up and it shouldn't be burnt. If someone can tell me what went wrong and how to fix it, that'd be great. Thanks!

http://imgur.com/gallery/DnPou
http://imgur.com/gallery/LY43y
http://imgur.com/gallery/3pmSc

Simple things first.

#1 does it have the filter board installed still? This is a board that sits between the game PCB and the harness. Is there? If so, remove it.
#2 Voltages. Did you check them?

Check voltage like this:

Check +5 VDC as measured across capcitors C2 or C3 (easy to get to on the game PCB).

FILTER BOARD IN RED RECTANGLE:

Thanks John. I'll check that stuff out when I get the time

I turn the game on, and it boots up and works perfectly. But I'll start playing a game, and I get a few boards in and the board just reboots. I get a few blue fruits and numbers on the screen as it goes into its boot sequence again. It doesn't happen at a certain place, it's completely random. Help? Thanks

Looking for an Eggs PCB, or full size cab, if anybody has one.

Flyback a can be difficult. Make sure you completely removed all the solder from the pins. Even one pin still soldered will hold that thing in. Gently try to wiggle. Use the iron and touch some points to see if one is hanging up. Be careful not to pull a trace. Also- you may have a couple connections still soldered. A lot of people will de-solder the "horseshoe" of the flyback and forget the 2 on the side.

You were spot on! But I still couldn't get it so I had my neighbor who works with soldering all the time and he was able to get it out for me. Monitor fires up immediately now! But I'm having troubles adjusting the picture. None of the pots on the chassis will make the picture get taller. Is this normal or am I missing a pot?

I have a Ms. Pac-Man cabaret with a 13" GO7-FBO in it. The monitor doesn't always work, and when it does, it takes 10-15 minutes to turn on, then it's solid until unplugged. I installed a full cap kit in it and same problem. I bought a new flyback and the old one doesn't want to come out of my chassis. What's the secret to getting the flyback out of this chassis? Am I missing something?

I put a little research into it now. There was 2 versions of the Ikari Warriors pcb and 1 of them is compatible with the Heavy Barrel connector. So as long as I can get one of that kind, I will be good. Thanks!

There is an original dedicated Heavy Barrel near me for $200. The monitor is broken, that won't be too hard. Would it be easy to convert it to an Ikari Warriors? They have the same controls. Thanks!