Long story longer... I restored a DK that had a 48in1 with proper artwork/panel/etc and have a blue elf in it. I want to get an Arcadesd but still want the blue elf for a few games for mikes arcade jamma switcher is the way to go. But... I don't want to drill to put the second fire button back in (over Pauline's face) so I wired it to player 2. Gotta have both start buttons for the arcade SD and Switcher...

Trying to figure out the best way to set up a button to be both player 2 coin and second fire button. My thought is to combine those two wires into one connector, but wouldn't that coin up player 2 instead of second fire? How does John's Pac-Man conversion handle it?

Are you thinking of something like this? (Not mine but wish it was)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Konami-the-Simpsons-Rent-Tent-4-player-sit-down-table-top-arcade-game-real-nice-/161713256060?hash=item25a6dc767c:g:yBEAAOSwNSxVX~ii

Shared this video with my teenager for a good laugh. After a few minutes, he yells out "wait... John's blkdog7? I've killed him like a few dozen times."

Sorry John. You're owned by a 16-year-old. Beware of tmotime!

Just an update.... In line at arcadeup. Hopefully we will have some answers in a few more weeks.

Great resource from the man himself. Study everything and head to eBay. Chips don't come around much on klov. http://johnsarcade.com/nintendo_vs_ppu_info.php

Ditto. Not that I can afford one but curious to see it in action vs. the back breaking method.

Thanks John. Here's hoping?

Scott here from today's video reader mail. Here's the whole story with details of the situation.

The monitor was flakey. Troxel took it out of the tent and back to his place to do a cap kit and replaced something else. The monitor had been fine since. 2 weeks ago I was playing that side of the cab and the game reset itself but had no monitor issues short of an occasional jump or color shift. When I started it up last weekend, I instantly got a whir sound and the click click click sound. The game played blind. The other side still plays fine. I could see the graphics thru the tornado.

That being said... I turned it on a few days later to see if a could get a better idea of what was going on. After letting the game play blind for about 2 minutes, the monitor went down, along with the sound. So the game no longer boots, but the other side is fine. It does coin up.

I suspect I blew a fuse, which leads me to thinking it's the flyback. I was told by PinballDan (who I bought it from) that replacing the caps can overload the flyback and create this issue. And John mentioned the click sound being a bad flyback. I didn't see any arcing but that doesn't mean I know what it wasn't. Some klov users swear it's the yoke and got into a flame war about it. Ugh.

My knowledge of monitors is limited. I don't want to scrap the monitor but I will need some help in diagnosis and repair.

Thanks to all for the help.

All sold! Thanks!

PC 10 Mike Tyson

VS Castlevania with board

Looking at adding an ArcadeSD to my JAMMA cab currently running a Blue Elf 412 vertical. Since I don't want to lose Qbert and a few others, I was looking at a 2 in 1. I know Mikes Arcade is the better bet, but my system doesn't have a 2 player button (it's wired as the player 1 second fire button). jammaboards version looks good with wireless switching, but I've read about video quality issues. Then there's the one from Holland Computers with a funky rocker switch.

Anyone have any experience with these (or an opinion)?

Checking in. Been on KLOV for years. Used Johns Arcade resources to fix up my Nintendo cabs but just got hooked on the videos and forum. I have a dedicated Klax, Kangaroo, Playchoice 10 with NES adapter, with an elf (keep the hate to a minimum), and a prefab multiNintendo with SNES, N64 and GameCube with GameBoy player. Just finishing a restore on my Red Tent. And yes, all of these are in my basement.