John's Arcade Forum - Classic Arcade and Pinball Collecting and Restoring Discussion Forum - RETRO MAME - Nintendo Vs Forum
May 18, 2024, 03:11:04 pm *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Welcome to the John's Arcade Forum. Glad you made it! Smiley
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2 3
  Print  
Author Topic: K4600 Blew Up... maybe...  (Read 9378 times)
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
jasonsmith
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 216


View Profile
« on: April 25, 2014, 09:18:21 pm »

Okay need some advice and help. I did a full cap kit on my K4600, double and triple checked all polarities and joints etc. On the first power up the monitor came alive and all was well for about 30 secs when all of a sudden I heard a static type noise, the screen did the CRT horizontal bright off thing, similar to the android phone CRT animations and then I saw smoke.

Followed the smoke to the R504 resistor on the power board. It was totally burnt up.

What now?
Logged
jasonsmith
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 216


View Profile
« Reply #1 on: April 25, 2014, 11:06:20 pm »

The main power transistor has something rattling inside and it directly feeds power through the blown resistor. I'm hoping that it's the issue and that my tube didn't blow. Sad
Logged
Tighe
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 176



View Profile WWW
Re:
« Reply #2 on: April 26, 2014, 07:12:44 am »

You should post this in the monitor repair section on KLOV there are a few guys there that really know their stuff.
Logged
iankellogg
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1433



View Profile
« Reply #3 on: April 26, 2014, 02:00:56 pm »

R504 is on the audio and power PCB.
C501 is a 10uF 160V (i packed probably a 250V) Double check the polarity on that cap.
Also check TR501.
Logged

https://iankellogg.com
Cap kits, eproms, and more
iankellogg
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1433



View Profile
« Reply #4 on: April 26, 2014, 02:14:29 pm »

Also just to tell you. I've done cap kits to monitors that were kind of working only to have them blow something immediately afterwards. It's like the shitty caps were keeping the thing alive.
Logged

https://iankellogg.com
Cap kits, eproms, and more
jasonsmith
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 216


View Profile
« Reply #5 on: April 26, 2014, 02:52:57 pm »

I totally believe that Ian. I think I opened up a can of worms with this K4600. There's been so many little mods and fixes done to it I have no idea where to even start.
Logged
iankellogg
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1433



View Profile
« Reply #6 on: April 26, 2014, 02:55:11 pm »

Start with the burnt resistor. Check for shorts on that pcb. I listed to things that are around to check.
Logged

https://iankellogg.com
Cap kits, eproms, and more
jasonsmith
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 216


View Profile
« Reply #7 on: April 26, 2014, 02:57:30 pm »

Oh awesome didn't see that post, thank you. I sure hope I didn't blow the yoke or tube or something more serious.
Logged
jasonsmith
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 216


View Profile
« Reply #8 on: April 26, 2014, 03:04:25 pm »

The resistor blew on the small power pcb but this is what my XY board looks like  Huh?


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85675826/2014-04-26%2012.55.34s.jpg


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85675826/2014-04-26%2012.55.08.jpg


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85675826/2014-04-26%2012.55.17s.jpg


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/85675826/2014-04-26%2012.55.47.jpg

I've thought about bringing it al back to stock but may never see it work again... idunno.
Logged
iankellogg
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1433



View Profile
« Reply #9 on: April 26, 2014, 03:16:13 pm »

Some of those might be factory installed mods. If you have the patience I will pull my K4600 out and take pictures. I need to cap it anyways. In the mean time double check those items above. You will have to remove the transistor before you test it.
Logged

https://iankellogg.com
Cap kits, eproms, and more
jasonsmith
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 216


View Profile
« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2014, 03:22:13 pm »

Thanks Ian, I'm patient.

The cap polarity is good and nothing is bridged. Am looking for an alternate to the TR501 locally. It's a 2SC1740Q, not sure if a straight 1740 will work or what. If I was going to pull it out thought I may as well just put a new one back in.
Logged
iankellogg
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1433



View Profile
« Reply #11 on: April 26, 2014, 03:24:19 pm »

Considering the price on these transistors I would advise you to just check it. No sense replacing unbroken parts.
Logged

https://iankellogg.com
Cap kits, eproms, and more
jasonsmith
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 216


View Profile
« Reply #12 on: April 26, 2014, 03:28:03 pm »

Wise words my friend, thank you. Need to learn and not pick up bad habits. It's funny, I'm looking at it now and it's a C1815 that's installed, not what it should be???

I'll test it anyway as I need to learn how to do that.
Logged
iankellogg
Global Moderator
Hero Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1433



View Profile
« Reply #13 on: April 26, 2014, 03:30:55 pm »

schematic lists it as
2SC1740 or 2SC1815
Logged

https://iankellogg.com
Cap kits, eproms, and more
jasonsmith
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 216


View Profile
« Reply #14 on: April 26, 2014, 03:41:45 pm »

Ah seeing that now, it's funny because on the parts list it shows the Q, silly me I never looked deeply for that number on the schematic.
Logged
Pages: [1] 2 3
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Install Simple Machines Forum Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!