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Author Topic: Can someone shed some light on what's wrong with my monitor? (see pics)  (Read 3273 times)
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Emig5m
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« on: November 02, 2015, 04:29:13 pm »

Tried KLOV, no help. Problem: The top of the monitor has severe white washout (see pic). It doesn't appear to be the screen since I can (somewhat) push it off the screen by adjusting the vertical size, however, a white halo will remain around the top since it's so bright and also the geometry will go more out of whack (both sides at the top bend out). I think both problems are related.

Previous work I've done: Cap Kit from Ian and today just for shits since I had the day off work I reflowed every solder point. I hate the scrap the monitor if it can be salvaged.

Any ideas what could be causing this? My father says voltage regulator, does this make sense?

Make/Model: Sharp XM2001N







Here's a pic of the halo that remains when I stretch the image off the screen:



Also, do these do-hickeys need to be straight up and down:



Please help save this monitor! Also, if anyone in the northern NJ area has a monitor that's plug and play in a Nintendo cab that they can sell me, let know (in case this monitor goes to the landfill)  Embarrassed
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iankellogg
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« Reply #1 on: November 03, 2015, 10:18:54 am »

DO NOT EVER THROW OUT A MONITOR.


What happens when you unplug the game PCB and leave the monitor on? Does that white stay there?

The other issues with geometry could be just adjustments in the yoke and maybe some deflection strips. not an easy task there.
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John's Arcade
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« Reply #2 on: November 03, 2015, 10:46:55 am »

Maybe try loosening the yoke and see if you can make the issue move. Could be a purity issue.
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Emig5m
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« Reply #3 on: November 03, 2015, 09:27:54 pm »

I'm going to do everything you guys say but I probably wont have time until the weekend since the job site where we're currently working I have almost a 4hr round trip commute right now.

I haven't tried without a PCB plugged in but I've ran three different PCBs so far, but I'll try without. The Yoke adjustment we'll have to elaborate on that some time this week as I have no idea what to do (does the monitor have to be powered off and discharged when you make the adjustment?) I really really really really hope I can fix this monitor because the I think the image other than the problem area is sharper than the Sanyo in my other cabinet.
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Emig5m
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« Reply #4 on: November 05, 2015, 03:54:29 pm »

Ok so I have some time today to play with the monitor. PCB unplugged, no white washout. PCB plugged in, white washout. Yoke loosened, I can tilt and move the picture around but that's about it - the white washout remains although it tilts with the picture when I move the yoke. My father still says voltage regulator....hmmm. Now what?

Could the actual Nintendo filter board interfere with the signal since it doesn't have the white washout without a PCB plugged in? And yes, tried multiple known working PCBs... Ahhh this is so frustrating!
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iankellogg
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« Reply #5 on: November 05, 2015, 03:56:55 pm »

well you shouldn't be using the filter PCB at all anyways, it is VERY often a source of issue.

The only other thing i can say to play with that would help me slim it down some would be to turn the monitor back on without a game plugged in
and mess with the screen brightness and color drive pots and see if there is anyway to make that washout happen without a game plugge din.
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Emig5m
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« Reply #6 on: November 05, 2015, 04:33:39 pm »

Ok... I suppose I could also rip out the harness from my other fully working R-Type cab and try it... be back in a while...
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iankellogg
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« Reply #7 on: November 05, 2015, 04:34:48 pm »

no need to rip the whole harness out. if there is a filter board between the game PCB and the harness remove it. otherwise leave it.
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Emig5m
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« Reply #8 on: November 05, 2015, 04:43:21 pm »

Ok so if I turn down the brightness and sub brightness all the way with the PCB unplugged a slight halo shows up around the top of the screen but not as bad as the pic I posted above of the R-Type high score screen - it's very slight. Turning up the brightness and sub brightness the halo disappears (possibly just hidden from the normal screen glow but otherwise looks uniform).

Do I really want to dismantle a working game to swap parts? ahhh,... Lemme think about it. Probably will do it, I'll be back in a while...
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Emig5m
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« Reply #9 on: November 05, 2015, 04:52:12 pm »

Ok... So I pulled the filter board out of my other cabinet already and no change... so that rules that out... Ahhh...
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Emig5m
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« Reply #10 on: November 05, 2015, 08:16:34 pm »

Well I think I killed the monitor. You know how curiosity killed the cat? Well something was telling me NOT to touch the B+ adjustment... well I did and the screen became a blurry distorted mess. Put the adjustment POT back to where it was and the screen was still a distorted blurry mess, oh well... it's completely hosed now. I didn't even bother to take a pic of the mess I got the feeling it's over for this monitor - I actually smelled what smelled like freshly melted solder. Sad

Anyway, before I got the brilliant idea to touch the B+ (don't ask what I was thinking) I was looking over the main PCB with a flashlight and noticed this discolored area that looked kinda burnt:



^Is that a normal occurrence? Anyway, if anyone has a good working monitor for sale in the northern NJ area (I'll drive up to 4hrs one way) let me know.... I have this game I've been restoring and it's utterly frustrating to be held up right before it's time to put it all back together with a bad monitor. I'm so frustrated I'm thinking about calling it a wrap on the entire project, cutting my loses, and parting it out.... Anyone want a freshly restored R-Type cabinet, brand new laminate, NOS original R-Type II artwork? (and marquee).

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