I wish just looking at the board was the way it worked.

No idea what not working means. I need a bit more information than that. Though, no matter what it sounds like you don't have the equipment needed to work on it. Maybe you know someone nearby that has an eprom burner and some other tools?

other shorts will cause ticking. Sometimes the poly caps fail, pretty much go around the board with your multimeter looking for shorts.

Step 1, make sure you are getting 5V across any of the 2 470uF axial caps on the main board.

step 2
pull the AUX board off. and place the z80 into the socket where the ribbon cable plugged in.


Step 3, Make sure both the sync board and vsync board are installed CORRECTLY. If you need help identifying what is 'correct' i can help with more detail.

did you ever check the HOT. it sounds like you still have a shorted HOT.

they sometimes show up on ebay used but most people love them enough to hold on to them. $140 for the full set is the going rate. Which you should get the 16bit adapter for the 90's games.

it will do both. The only 'eprom' it can't do is are triple voltage eproms, such as the TMS2716. Which is pretty much only found on space invaders and other midway 8080 sets. I'm not sure the EMP10 can do these ether.

That sounds okay to me. just make sure you get long lead, and not cut lead. If you accidentally buy cut lead you will have a hard time soldering it in.

That's not that bad honestly. I wonder if you could get a little closer with a light abrasive

just so if anyone finds this in the future. the EMP10 and EMP20 are not worth it anymore.

pick up a GQ-4X
http://www.mcumall.com/comersus/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=4282

This programs pretty much everything except PROMs and is supported on windows 7/8/10

Removing paint is really really really hard. Most people don't even bother and just sand back to wood and repaint.

every TV is going to support 15khz since NTSC is a 15khz signal.

RGB is obviously a better way to drive a monitor than NTSC but unless your TV supports a VGA input you probably aren't getting RGB without significant modification. If you can find a way to use composite (NTSC) video then you would at least have something working.

That's awesome!! Glad it was a relatively simple fix!

As for the flyback, keep that as a spare. No reason to replace what isn't broken.

buffet and chad (arcadecup.com) are two I know that are still accepting repairs. Their repair queue's are months long however. If I wasn't also backed up I would take you on. Maybe its worth trying to repair it yourself.

any vendor is going to have it. mouser/digikey

just look for a polypropylene .92uF 400 or 630V cap

Not that surprising really. if it isnt something extremely common you need to make your own transformer.

I would try to find an old microwave (the super heavy ones) and rip the transformer out and rewind the secondary for the taps you need.