Thank you!!  Now I just have to win that dead cocktail at the auction Thursday night!

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I was wondering if anyone has one - if so do you know if the qbert games do cocktail mode?  I am not interested in enabling any of the other games.  But if I can't do qbert in cocktail mode then there is no point as I have no room for another upright.

FYI - I did google... But I can't find a definitive yes or no.

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Got it. I will feed the demons, err children and report back on the yolk coil resistance.  Thx Ian!

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Wanted to ask about that!!
So i plug in the chassis except that one molex and put my multimeter in the hole and flip on the machine?  I just wanna confirm and dont want to fry myself.  Sorry for the remedial questions.

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Also on the photo you supplied, the RED wire was scorched as was the grey plastic connector.
That wire is close to this tall cone thing with a copper coil which also had some scorching...
I reflowed the connector that plugs into and while the monitor was on - I crossed my fingers and touched the wire and connector after it had been running a while - not hot - so the black was likely from before a previous fix?

I ended up taking a good close look at the neckboard tonight. That round thingie that plugs into the glowing shot glass - stop laughing... One of the points was never ever soldered to the board. Did that, then another 5gi was missing-on close inspection it was pulled out under the round thing soldered to a wire that went over to a mini board attached to the metal side of the chasis with a cap on it?
Like I said this chasis has been hacked and re-hacked cut burnt!
Anyway, after reflowing anything that has anything to do with Vertical or Horizontal... I get the exact same line... No matter what pot I manipulate.

Does anyone fix these on the side? 

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OK WOW!  This is way over my head!!! 
What happened to Recapping fixes everything?  Sigh!  LOL

Where would one find transistors?? 
Does anyone sell kits for this?

In your post there was no picture - but my yolk seems ok I get glow and all that jazz.
when I play with the RGB pots on the neckboard the colour changes on my line I get...

One last thing - I didn't change one of the caps - it was the one where it said something about a transistor in the same holes??
you marked it as a D and not a C in the kit?  306 I wanna say?  (at work rt now).
Anyway I wasn't 100% sure what to do... replace the component there with the cap provided?  Put them BOTH in there together?
do you think that one cap could be a miracle fix? 

I was worried about doing a cap kit, and now, I am lost.

[Note:]

UPDATE: Mr Kelloggs Cap Kit arrived and I was finally able to do it tonight.
My Solder sucker sucks though... or rather DOESN'T suck very well.  But I got it done.

Anyway, after putting the chassis back in and checking and triple cheking every wire and cup and molex was in the right place in the right direction.
I flipped it on... *Drum roll*

NOTHING... Same line across the screen.  
I can report this though... the center of the board has slices in it... I dont want to say 'holes' like someone took a miniature skill saw and put a few hacks into the board.  it looks weird but none of the caps/trans/resistors are affected.  it also looks like it was worked on before...  lots of old flux and BIG ASS solder dolops etc.

So now that I am officially stumpped. what should I do?  Try and find a K4915 med res chassis?  
Any further advice?

Note: I do have a K4906 Std Rez Monitor...  but I know from other conversations that wont work... but WHAT ABOUT the Chassis???  are thos inter-changable?

to the trained eye - is this the same chassis for my med Rez?
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/WELLS-GARDNER-WORKING-K4900-MONITOR-CHASSIS-19-CLEAN-/151879253550?hash=item235cb57e2e:g:4q0AAOSwAYtWQIP4
NVM - it is NOT a 4915 - confirmed by the seller.

I am on it Ian! 
I will post a pic before I do anything.

Thanks a bunch!

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Yes! Thats exactly it. It was a wrist strap but I cut the wire and attached it to the nail-puller screwdriver. 

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Hey Ian, yes a total reflow is first on my list.
As for the tool modification, do you have a picture of what I need to make? I don't quite understand and want to make sure I get it right so I don't kill the monitor (or myself).

My understanding of caps, transistors and resistors is limited to watching John change em in his videos. 

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My asteroids has been acting up.
Sometimes it works great, sometimes 1/2 a screen - a smack to the side of the cab fixes that - sometimes a bright dot in the center with faint lines going to all the asteroids.

I would like to reflow all the joints first. The smack fix gives me the notion it is a poor connection somewhere.

I seem to remember though, standard discharge tool = bad??
Is there a special tool/technique required to discharge the vector. XY monitor? 

I checked youtube and all the available vids are grounded screwdrivers under the cup.

Advice please.



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<Parody Post>
I knew eventually I would catch you John. 

Listen guys, John wants us to think he is this lonely every-day arcade collector like we all are. He probably doesn't even LIKE arcades!  That is not his basement in the New England countryside - it is a set; probably near Burbank, California!

Your secret is out John!  You should have had YOUR editor catch this John - but you were PROBABLY too busy in make-up getting a pedi or drinking an espresso when your editor dropped the ball.  I SAW YOUR CAMERA SWITCH POSITIONS!!!  Yea man!  At about 27:10 the camera operator moved the camera! You weren't even near the camera!

I always knew you had a producer and a director and a Key-grip and boom mic operator, an editor and a whole post production crew!  Nobody is THAT good talking to a camera!  You're just some actor hired to dupe us just to sell t-shirts!!  AREN'T YOU!!!

Here is what we see...


And here is what John sees:

So yea John - if that is INDEED your real name - your secret is out!!!  I am on to your corporate shenanigans!! 
SELL OUT!  FRAUD! 
</Parody Post>
 

WILL DO John!  Thanks for the advice!
I am on it... poppin my cap cherry on a championship sprint!
WHOOOO!!

Thanks John - that was the first thing I looked at was the flow chart.

I couldn't tell if that was actually the exact problem (vert deflection) Your trained eye though... I am convinced.
These C311,306,308 & 313 are all things I can order from someone like Ian yea? 

It also said Transistor Q302, 303 and Resistor R313... Ian if you read this - do you have a kit for all that for a med res WG4900 for sale?