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Author Topic: Power Supply  (Read 3749 times)
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wraywray
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« on: March 23, 2015, 12:29:26 pm »

i am new to this so i am sorry if this has been posted a million times. I am restoring (or attempting to) an Asteroids and Centipede, and was curious if i were to replace the power supply if needed, would this be the one to use?


http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=4
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iankellogg
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« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2015, 10:07:42 pm »

are you missing the AR2 board or is it just not working?

even if you were to replace the power supply with that switcher you linked, which you could do, you would still be missing the audio amp required to drive the speakers.
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wraywray
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« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2015, 06:56:31 am »

i am going to test it tonight. i was checking the power supply last night and i think i have a power problem but i am going to trace it tonight. i was looking online online for the kit to go with the switching power supply to asteroids and centipede and i didnt see one. hopefully i can have more info tonight as i am sure i will have more questions. thanks for that info
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Dig Dug
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« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2015, 05:21:55 pm »

Ok guys,(!) Hope you can help me. This is my first post, hopefully I'm doing this with the correct posting etiquette.

Yesterday I was in the middle of a game of Dig Dug with my kid when I heard a pop and I noticed a flash from inside my open coin door. The game quit but the screen and marque lights were still on. I found that the F3 20-Amp. 32V Slow Blow Glass Fuse was bad when I tested it with the multimeter. I tested all other fuses, none were bad except for F3. I tested power at connection J5 and found that I’m not getting any DC power from the power brick. Early last year I replaced almost everything in the power supply, including: Big Blue, and the Bridge Rectifier. Is it possible that the line filter is bad? Or is this something with the DC side of the bridge Rectifier? What do you expect to see when a line filter goes bad?

The weird thing is that about a month ago the game wouldn't come on because it wasn't getting any DC voltage. That time i triple checked all of my fuses and when I unplugged the main power cord coming from the wall to the brick (at the brick connection) and re-plugged the main cord back in the game came back up with the correct voltages. Any ideas what could be causing this? What should I check? Thanks for your help, if you've seen this before I'd like to hear from you! Thanks! John, love your videos keep it up man!
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iankellogg
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« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2015, 05:49:45 pm »

Get a few spare 25a fuses and replace F3. Atari bricks are terribly designed and can blow the fuse for no reason. 

Yes use a 25a and not a 20a. If it blows again then maybe your big Blue capacitors are bad or the AR2s is bad.
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Dig Dug
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« Reply #5 on: April 25, 2015, 09:36:16 am »

Here's a status update. I took the power brick out last night and went through it. Tested the bridge rectifier and it looks fine. I didn't see anything that looked bad, no burnt wires, etc. I smacked the back of the line filter with a screw driver a couple of times and hooked it back up. Fired right up with the correct voltages all around. I guess I have a bad line filter. Will replace when I have some time.
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iankellogg
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« Reply #6 on: April 25, 2015, 10:57:33 am »

if you replaced that fuse with a 25A fuse you are probably fine and don't need to replace the line filter.
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