Update - I brought the Pacman PCB home and tested it in my Ms. Pacman, and it works fine (thank ya Jesus!). I think next week I'll pull the monitor board, recap it and replace the fuse that I think blew. I shall keep you posted.

We have power!!

And then a fuse on the monitor board blew. So I'm getting no neck glow. Now here's the weird thing - I credit up the game, and I can hear it. Then if you press start, the game just makes the one-up "ding ding ding" noise repeatedly. The game never actually starts. A few weeks back the game board was tested in a Junior Pacman and it played just fine. I will probably take the board home tonight and test it in my Ms. Pacman. Hopefully I didn't screw up the PCB. I can't tell, though because the monitor won't come on.

Does anyone have any idea what might be going on?

YES!! That's exactly what I was talking about.

Thanks Ian!!

I wasn't sure if my power chord was bad, so I had the voltmeter on 200AC setting. Unplugged the molex connector on the power chord, then put one lead up to the negative port on the power chord, and touched the other lead to ground. Then POP! Yeah. I'm still learning.

Just to make sure we're talking about the same thing, I'm talking about the Lead Interference Filter that connects the power chord's positive, negative and ground wire through to the transformer. The little silver box in front of the right side transformer, correct?

Hello again forum!

I recently picked up a dead Pacman cabaret on the cheap and have been troubleshooting it in order to bring it back to life. Yesterday I burned out a voltmeter testing the power chord, so I know it's getting electricity, but when I tested the RFI filter (with a new voltmeter), it was dead. So I think I found my problem. I've looked up solutions online, and many people are suggesting removing the RFI filter altogether. However, I can't find any illustrations of what it should look like without the RFI filter hooked up. Does anyone know where I can find such an illustration?

Thanks!

We performed the ROM check, and it says everything is OK. What should I check next? Bad connectors?

Upon further inspection, it appears that the D507 light on the monitor board (I think) is lighting up. I'm assuming this is the monitor board. My experience with monitor boards stems from boards mostly. With these vector monitors, I assume it's a little different. Good thing I'm familiar with soldering.

So does the D507 light figure out my problem? According to the manual about BW monitors linked above (page 46), I should be checking components D504, D505, D506 and C510 for shorts. I'm not sure what or where those are.

There is a red light lit up on the PCB board. So I think your suggestion may be the fix I need. The owner said that her son was able to get it working before, but when I talked to him he didn't recall what he did to get it to work. Either way, the owner gave me both this and Stargate for for free because they weren't working and she's getting divorced so she didn't want them anyway. It's a great score no matter what.

Hooray for divorce!

This is probably a stupid question, but the monitor on my Asteroids cabinet isn't coming on. I get sound and I can tell the buttons and controls work because I can hear it shooting, etc. I just got it and the owner said it didn't work. I looked inside and everything inside this machine is SUPER clean. This thing must've been professionally cared for since 79. The side art is immaculate as well. Just a nice solid (though extremely effing heavy) cabinet.

Any ideas? Should I change out the old Big Blue capacitor? I hear those are problematic with this machine.

Thanks Tighe! I actually watched your Super Hang On video on YouTube before I went over to work on it. I'll let you know what I find out.

My friend just bought a Super Hang On, and there's no bikes or roadside objects on the screen. So far all of the controls and such seem to be working, but the force feedback isn't working either. Most of my fixes have been cap kit fixes but this one looks like something else. Any idea what's wrong with it? Bad rom chip, maybe?

Hey John,

I didn't cap the audio board, just the monitor board. I figured the audio worked fine so I wouldn't mess with it. I just need to turn it down a little, and I can do that since the dial for that is back next to the V-hold and V-Center dials and such.

Where is the b+ voltage dial?

Hey guys!

I've noticed my Jr getting wavy at times. Could this be from the voltage being up too high? I understand that there's a voltage dial (I believe back by the horizontal coil) and maybe I just need to dial it back or something. The power supply does have an audible hum to it, while my original plays nice and quietly. The only other difference between the two machines is DK Jr's volume is up higher and that's just because I'm too lazy to turn it down.

What might be causing this? Both machines were recapped recently, which fixed a great of visual problems. Should I be concerned about the humming and is there a way to quiet it down?

Thanks again everyone!

And on the plus side, I'm going to be adding 2-4 more restorations to my living room soon thanks to everyone's advice. ;)

You rock, John! Thanks again!

Hey guys!

One month after fixing up my Jr machine, I came across an original machine, so naturally, I bought it. There's just two things that need adjusting. First, the color is off. I adjusted the brightness, but and the barrels are still a deep reddish brown. The cables on the elevator levels aren't even visible between the platforms. I'm pretty sure you can adjust the RGB levels but I haven't found where.

Secondly, and perhaps more noticeable, the game seems to play faster than every other DK machine I've ever played. I noticed the screen is narrow, so I need to adjust the vertical width, but I don't think making the screen wider is going to fix the speed. Has anyone ever experienced this before? If so, is there an adjustment I can do to fix it with?

Thanks for your advice!